the pitchings of the small steamer which touches at Molokai, and to take their chances of securing sleeping quarters there (for Molokai has no hotels), find the island in its isolation both beautiful and interesting. There one may step back into a day which is past, and may find the Hawaiians living much as they did back in the last century. The experience Is an interesting one and well repays the slight hardships and privation involved ; but it should not be undertaken save by those who -are physically fit and used to roughing it. Over on the northern coast of Molokai, on a peninsula absolutely cut off from the rest of the Island by a 2,000-foot cliff and effectually guarded on the other three sides by the deep waters of the Pacific, lies the little settlement of Kalaupapa. Here in complete isolation, but surrounded by comfort, and living, unbelievable as it may seem, happy, busy lives, dwell some five hundred men, women and children afflicted with leprosy. There. in the early days Father Damien gave his life for his little flock of stricken ones. ‘There today, under modern medical and surgical care, lepers are actually being discharged as cured and returned—if they will so—to the world they had left. After seeing Kalaupapa—and some steamers now pass close to it on special inter-island trips,—ones ceases to think of a leper colony as a place of horror. Nearly opposite and due south of Molokaj is little Lanai. Travelers call there only if they are on business or have friends among the pineapple interests: for Lanai is simply a great pineapple plantation, owned exclusively by one of [ 16] the and utilized pineapple com- panies for the production fruit. of that luscious | Next in the chain of large islands is Maui, about ninety miles southeast of Oahu and looking to be but a stone’s throw from Molokai. Maui is really two islands joined by an isthmus on which sugar is extensively grown. ‘The most interesting part of Maui is the eastern “half.” This is in reality a huge volcanic mountain, Haleakala (House of the Sun), which rises from the water’s edge to a height of 10,097 feet at the high point on the rim of its great crater. Haleakala, long extinct but with the evidence of volcanic action as fresh as if it had spewed forth molten lava but yesterday, will one day be an objective of every visitor in Hawai. ‘Today it is seen at close range by only a handful, hardly one out of every hundred. ‘This is because reaching the summit involves eight miles of steep trails from the 4,000 to the 10,000 foot level; trails which must be covered afoot or on horseback. But tor those who enjoy that sort of thing, and who don’t mind sleeping on double-decker cots in a rough concrete rest-house, there is wonderful reward in the magnificent spectacle of Haleakala’s vast, colorful crater, twenty miles in circumference, seven miles across at. its widest point, and over 2,000 feet deep! The sunrise over this crater, which at that morning hour is usually in a sea of clouds, is one of this world’s most marvelous spectacles. The crater may be entered down one sloping wall, and crossed, and the trip may be continued around the base of the mountain over the jungle-clad and lovely Ditch Trail. West Maui, as the western “half” is called, L171